I’m cheap… about specific things. One of those being outdoor décor. Usually because it only lasts a year or two. While Spring wreath shopping this year I just couldn’t stomach $100+ for a flower wreath at Hobby Lobby, even 40% it was just too high. But they had these beautiful metal flowers on clearance for $25, that is a price I could handle. Think outside the box, almost anything the right size and durability can be used to make a one of a kind wreath.
Saturday, March 23, 2013
Friday, March 15, 2013
- Fabric (I used Duck Cloth, yardage will depend on your ironing board size)
- Old Ironing Board Cover (for pattern and misc pieces)
1. Remove your old Ironing Board cover and break apart all the pieces gently. Keep them intact because you can reuse most of it.
2. Use your old cover as a template on your new fabric. Pin and Cut-out.
3. Sew your new fabric to your foam. I kept my old fabric on and just sewed the new fabric over it, was just easier. For the top of the ironing board you might have a small piece, simply sew it along with the rest of your cover making sure to put it right side facing the board cover. I used a serge type stitch that looped over the edge to sew the cover.
4. Sew your mesh type fabric that holds the elastic back around all the edges making sure to leave a gap for the elastic. I used a long straight stitch.
5. Attach a safety pin to the end of the elastic and work it through the mesh. Sew the ends together after it’s pulled completely through. I also sprayed a scrap piece of fabric with adhesive and wrapped it around the stitched elastic for extra durability.
Step 1: Paint on your wall color. I used a medium grey shade in satin.
Step 2: Sponge on a darker shade of metallic glaze. I used a Charcoal glaze from the Martha Stewart line and an old wash rag.
Step 3: Sponge on a white gloss very lightly, blending it very well. I did this sporadically, just a touch here and there to add dimension.
Step 4: Using another old rag and a silver glaze (I used Martha Stewart’s glaze again in a silver metallic) “swirl” it on the wall. Use small (approx. 4”) swirls all over. This is the key to getting it from the “painted on” look to a more tile like finish.
Step 5: Using your original wall color and a stencil (I used one from Cutting Edge Stencils) lightly roll on the pattern until all areas are covered.
Tuesday, March 12, 2013
- Bag – any will do but I used a muslin backpack for these
- Clear Vinyl – found in the fabric section, usually used for shower curtains/table clothes
- Sewing machine, scissors & thread
Step 2 - Cut out where you marked using scissors. Then cut 1/4” into the corners. This is so you can fold the edges over.
Step 3 - Fold in your edges and iron them down if needed.
Step 4 - Cut a piece of vinyl large enough to cover hole + an additional 1/4”. Pin down to bag.
Step 5 - If your vinyl hangs in the machine a simple trick is to tape (scotch tape) the foot and metal plate, the tape will allow the vinyl to glide smoothly.
Step 6 - Sew around the edges.
Step 7 - If your bag doesn’t sit up by itself simply stitch a line on the inside corners. This will make it to where the bag will sit flatly on it’s bottom.
Step 8 (Optional) – I cut a Lego figure out on my Silhouette Cameo. Then ironed it on. If you’re using the bag for trucks then you could cut a truck out or puzzle piece for puzzles etc.
Tuesday, March 05, 2013
- Step 1: You’ll want to begin by gathering all your brushes, lay them between fabric “A” & “B”, pin on each side then mark the spot with a fabric pencil (remove pins and brushes after marking). This way you know how much space each brush will need. If you don’t have as many brushes as I do (or have even more!) just adjust all your fabric (A,B,C) to a wider width. Remember to keep 3/4” on the left side and 1.5” on the right for seam allowance and Velcro if you change the width. I used 1” space on most of my smaller brushes, 1.5” for the wider ones and my largest slot is 2” for the Kabuki Brush.
- Step 2: Fold over the top edge of your “A” fabric by 1/4” and sew. This is to keep the edge from fraying.
- Step 3: Lay fabric “A” over fabric “B” and pin the edges. Stitch a line on fabric “A” 3” down from the top along the entire length of fabric. This is to keep your brushes from slipping too far down into the pockets. You can make it deeper if needed for your brushes. I chose 3” because I have short handled travel brushes too and I wanted to have enough space below to add a decorative stitching.
- Step 4: Then sew each of the lines you marked earlier to divide brushes.
- Step 5: Add your hook Velcro on the right side, leaving a 3/4” gap on the right edge for seam allowance.
- Step 6: Now we need to figure out where the other side of our Velcro needs to go. Lay your combined Fabric “A&B” over fabric “C”. Pin edges together & insert brushes. Roll up and mark on fabric “C” where the loop Velcro should be sewn. Unroll, remove brushes and unpin. Sew your loop Velcro to fabric “C”.
- Step 7: Lay fabric “A&B” over fabric “C”, right sides facing. Pin & Stitch 1/2” seam allowance around entire piece, leaving a 4” gap at bottom left corner to turn it. I used duck cloth so my fabric was really thick. If you’re using cotton then a smaller gap can be used. Clip corners, trim excess edges (if necessary) and turn right side out.
- Step 8: I chose to use a decorative stitch on my Sewing Machine to seal the gap. But a simple straight stitch will get the job done also.
- Step 9: Optional, add iron-on vinyl using a Vinyl Cutter to identify each brush.
- Step 10: Insert brushes & enjoy!!!!